Fall in Paris
France has been a huge part of my life. I studied abroad in the French countryside when I was 19. I visited my French cousins who grew up there. My first job in fashion sent me to France and other parts of Europe. After my mother’s marriage to my stepfather, I also gained three French stepbrothers who grew up in France. But it has been awhile since I’ve visited. I haven’t been back to Paris since my eldest stepbrother’s wedding in 2018. Then pandemic happened and I was weary about traveling so far abroad up until this year when I traveled to Italy and Portugal in April and decided I felt comfortable traveling again. One of my stepbrothers had a baby last month and my parents planned to visit. At the last minute, I decided to join them briefly so that I could see my French family and take my parents out to a Michelin-star dinner in Paris. They deserved it. Plus, how often do you get to take your parents out to dinner in Paris?
Prior to going to Paris, there were a lot of articles circulating about bed bugs in the city of love. This made me nervous because I booked a budget hotel in the 5th district to save money. It turned out to be basic and clean, but too small. I had a single bed and had to walk around it to get from my suitcase to the bathroom. The walls were thin and I could hear so much noise starting at 6am, the time that I would start to fall back asleep because of my jet-lag. I could never get comfortable with the thought of bed bugs in my mind. As a result, my sleep was horrible the entire trip. I was so tired and sleep-deprived, especially after walking 5-7 miles a day. I didn’t intend to walk that much. It just happened. I Ubered when I needed to, but there was so much traffic that it took forever to get anywhere.
On a positive note, I loved not having a real schedule or itinerary for this trip. I have visited Paris many times before, so there weren’t any must-see sights for me. Usually, I’m an extreme planner when traveling. This time, the only things on my list was to take my parents to Michelin-star restaurant Frenchie and to see my French stepbrothers. It was nice to have time to leisurely stroll through the city, peruse the markets, and shop. I never have time to shop when I travel! I took breaks during my long walks to stop for champagne and a snack or tea and Nutella crepes. It was lovely. However, I did not enjoy the temperature dropping after my first two days there. I am not made for cold weather.
On my first night in Paris, I decided to roam around the city and then grab drinks and dinner in the 11th district. I was hoping to wait in line for dinner at Clamato, sister restaurant of Michelin-star restaurant Septime. I had originally tried to get reservations for Septime, but it was impossible. As I waited for Clamato to open, I got drinks at Septime La Cave, their wine bar. I met an American expat who had a hookup at Septime and was able to get me a seat for dinner that night. Because I was curious about all the hype surrounding this restaurant, I immediately took him up on his offer. I was so jet-lagged though and was falling asleep at dinner. Seven courses is a lot of dishes to sit through when you’re tired. Septime had a lovely vibe, but I must say, I think it is completely overrated. The dishes were very veggie-forward, which is great, I love veggies. But I didn’t think it was worth the price tag, impossible reservations, and hype. The next night, I took my parents to the Michelin-star restaurant Frenchie. My parents and I enjoyed it very much! It was supposed to be five courses, but with all the little extras, it turned out to be twelve! The plating and presentation was beautiful. A lot more intricate than Septime. The dishes felt more elevated with a mixture of seafood, including lobster tail, duck, sauces, and multiple parts to each course. I highly recommend Frenchie over Septime.
I visited La Grande Epicurie in Saint Germain district. It’s a five floor gourmet market with artisanal food items, produce, seafood, butcher shop, wine shop, and kitchenware. It was heaven. So many goodies! I love how Europe has so many mini bottles and jars of everything. So cute! I wanted to buy everything. Definitely a must-do for foodies visiting Paris. I walked by Bread & Roses, a charming bakery/cafe, and wanted to stop there but didn’t get a chance. I would add this to my list for next time.
My youngest stepbrother hosted Sunday brunch. His wife made a feast for us. Cooking and an appreciation for food runs in our family. She loves to cook and is also a very skilled baker. She made everything from scratch. That same stepbrother and his wife also took me and my parents out to lunch at a Chinese restaurant called La Taverne de Zhao Opera that I really liked. They had great dumplings and noodles.
I can’t go too long without Asian food so I found myself seeking Asian food after only two days in Paris. There is such a thing as overindulgence and I felt that after my first two nights of Michelin-star dinners. My stomach was tired of eating and I just wanted comfort food, which for me is rice, soup, or noodles. I’m not that into bread and there are only so much tartines, croissants, and pastries that I could eat. I stopped at The Hood for Hainanese chicken and rice and Mirama for a bowl of Chinese wonton noodle soup. Mmmhmm. Just what my belly craved.
When I originally booked the trip, I felt guilty. I had already been to Europe earlier this year and I have my birthday trip planned for next month. But I had the time and time is currency you can’t get back. I’m happy that I took the opportunity to visit my family in Paris and spend more time with my parents because those experiences are priceless.
